Just about every wine writer in Australia (and several overseas) has had a crack at proclaiming the greatness of this single-vineyard chardonnay from the Yarra Valley that expresses perfectly what the new wave style of Australian chardonnay represents. So I might as well jump on the bandwagon. Using grapes from the dry-grown van der Meulen Vineyard, winemaker David Bicknell has perfectly captured the purity of the fruit. There are citrus and white peach notes and beautifully balanced oak that aids and abets the fruit rather than intruding. This is a supremely stylish wine, elegant with just 13% alcohol and well worth splashing out some cash on - if you can find any. It has all but sold out. $72.
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