I love this wine. All three of the 2020 single block pinot noirs from Kooyong on the Mornington Peninsula are outstanding but this one is the star turn; made from fruit grown on a site of under a hectare that is full of ironstone pebbles that give the wine its individual character. This is a concentrated, intense pinot with sweet and savoury notes allied to minerality, but it also also has elegance and style. A portion of whole bunch and wild fermentation in old oak have resulted in a magical potion. After fermentation the wine was pressed and racked into French oak barriques (25% new) and underwent malo, adding texture. Unfined, unfiltered and an absolutely marvellous drink that evaporated far too soon. Magical, and 98 points from me. $75. www.portphillipestate.com.au
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